Laminate flooring gives you the best of both worlds - the look of wood but with added durability. The finish resists wear, stains and fading more effectively than hardwood.

Measure the width of the room and calculate how the last row of planks will end. Now set down the underlay. Unlike many flooring types, laminated flooring is not nailed into the underlay or subfloor, but rests on top of it. Because it is a floating floor, the glued-together planks must be the right dimensions - so take care!

Manufacturers recommend using a vapour barrier to keep moisture away from the flooring. Overlapping sections of polyurethane plastic will usually do this job well. Aim for an overlap of about 200mm. Fit the foam underlay snugly against walls, smooth out wrinkles by pulling towards the edges, then trim any overhang. When satisfied with the fit, secure the seams with duct tape.

With the underlay down, begin to glue the planks of the flooring together. Remember to leave space between the planks and the walls for size alterations as the laminate settles.

Your new floor may be higher, causing it to stick on doors. Use a piece of scrap flooring to test and trim the door casing if necessary. You may need to saw or plane off the bottom of the door.

The laminate will split if you are not careful check manufacturer´s instructions! If you do not have these, remember to cut the plank with its face up if you are using a hand saw, and face down with a power saw.

When sticking planks together, put glue on the groove of each plank (except the first, which will be flush against the wall). Tap together gently with a mallet or block of wood using a scrap of flooring. Align ends and wipe off any excess glue.

For the last row close to wall, use pull bar for leverage to fit planks together. Avoid floor until it has set and settled. Plan how to keep your feet off the floor for up to a week!